Monday, November 24, 2008

Karijini National Park

It seems amazing now that Karijini National Park, famous for it's dramatic creeks, spectacular gorges and towering sheer sided chasms up to 100 metres deep, wasn't originally on our itinerary. We simply hadn't heard of it till people kept saying "You have to go there". Getting there involved some rough gravel road. We went first to the Dales Gorge end, where the camping facilities were fairly basic (long drop toilets, no showers except at the main reception centre a long drive away). The number of camp sites is restricted and allocated on a first come basis but were quite pleasant. Our plan to take a 4-wheel drive tour of some of the gorges and locations was frustrated when it turned out the bus was in for repairs. We would have to use our van instead. But first, we explored the nearby Dales Gorge and its wonderful Circular Pool. Once into the Gorge, it was like a wonderland of landscape design:

At the end was the Circular Pool, freezing cold water but so inviting that even Jean couldn't resist getting in:

At the other end of Dales Gorge we walked to the Fern Pool, where I had another dip, too cold for Jean this time:
The view from above is quite stunning as well:

After Dales Gorge we decided to move to the other end of the park, at the Savannah Eco-Retreat, an upmarket camp owned by the local Aboriginal community, with a fancy restaurant. The Aboriginal lady who checked us in was also named Egan, and she told us that she was barred from sharing in the recently won Land Rights because her great-grandfather was an Afghan cameleer! The young European girl who took our meal order for the restaurant assured us that the nights were very cold there, so much so that she slept with three hot water bottles (clearly a kindred spirit for Jean).

Our target at this end was the magnificent Weano Gorge, but getting there involved driving over some nasty corrugated roads and negotiating a water crossing of unclear depth, which we managed OK. From the top the Oxer lookout gives a wonderful perspective of the meeting of four huge gorges, the Red, Weano, Joffre and Hancock meet - can't quite capture it all in one picture :-) When they tell you:
"To explore these gorges you must be fit and prepared to submerge in near-freezing water, follow narrow paths and cling to rock ledges. " they're not kidding!
On our way out of Weano we ploughed merrily into the water crossing again, not being aware the outward side had a deep invisible pothole; our van bounced heavily with a noisy crash, throwing out cascades of water. Fortunately no major damage resulted but two young European girls, waiting to come the other way in a hired 4-wheel drive, watched in horror, instantly put their vehicle into reverse and abandoned their trip to Weano. We enjoyed a nice meal at the restaurant before embarking next morning on the road again.

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