We arrived in the coastal town of Derby (Pop. 4,500) on 13 July. Derby is located on the tidal mud flats on the edge of the King Sound. It has the highest tidal range of any port in Australia. Basically, we are heading for Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek but Derby has a few distractions of its own (Aboriginal Mowanjum Art Centre and an iconic Boab Tree) of which more later. Getting to Windjana Gorge involves a bone-shaking, van-rattling ride on part of the infamous Gibb River gravel road.
For non-Australians I should explain that outback gravel roads can include a variety of hazards such as huge potholes, water crossings on fords of indeterminate depth, fine bulldust that turns to deep slimy mud when wet and infiltrates every part of your vehicle when dry, and corrugations that cause a vehicle to bounce continually. In recent years corrugations have become much worse due to the heavy traffic of large 4-wheel drive SUVs (sports utility vehicles) and motorhomes. The traditional Australian solution is to "drive fast on the wrong side of the road", thereby skimming over the ridges, not a viable solution for our ancient 2-wheel drive van. We creep along at 25 Kms, pulling over for 4-wheel drives that scream past at 80 Kms.
However, we make it reasonably intact to Windjana National Park, where the main attraction is the scenic gorge carved by the Lennard River, through the Napier Range. The 3.5-kilometre long gorge cuts through the limestone of the Napier Range; part of an ancient barrier reef, regarded by geologists as a classic feature of world geology. Strange to think these huge rocky outcrops were all made by tiny sea corals aeons ago:
Here 'tis
Entering the gorge through a narrow portal, a new world unfolds:
The local inhabitants are having a nap; we're not in a safe boat but at least they're on the far side:
Hey, what's this? They're on our side now (picture taken about 5 metres away). Actually, these are freshwater crocs, generally considered small and cuddly by comparison with their saltwater cousins. Jean's reaction on first seeing one up close and personal was "They're huge.":
Moving along smartly further up the gorge:
Next, using Windjana as a base we visit Tunnel Creek. The anticipated rough ride doesn't eventuate as, luckily, the grader has been through recently, levelling out the corrugations.
Tunnel Creek is Western Australia’s oldest cave system, famous as a hideout used late last century by an Aboriginal leader known as Jandamarra, who was killed outside its entrance in 1897, having evaded the police for three years. In the Kimberley they call him a black Ned Kelly, an outlaw to some and a warrior to others.
Tunnel Creek flows through a water worn tunnel beneath the limestone of the Napier Range, part of the 375 to 350 million-year-old Devonian Reef system. You walk 750 metres through the tunnel to the other side of Napier Range, wading through several permanent pools and watching for bats and the stalactites that descend from the roof in many places. Tunnel Creek was once known as the "cave of bats". At least five species of bat are known to use the cave. We enter through a rocky incline, knee deep in water at times:
Head torches are essential because inside, it's an almost stygian gloom at times:
but with many things to see:
There's always light at the the end of the tunnel:
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